Friday, August 31, 2012

Ahi Paneinei Kapw (My New Family)


In an earlier draft of this blog post, I began to attempt to untangle the complicated genealogy of my family, but since then I have grown to accept and embrace the fluidity in which Pohnpeians view family, so my description will be different. I apologize if my explanation doesn’t make things entirely clear, but this is the way I see my family, and the way I want you to see them, too.
I have two fathers and two mothers: Nohno Melipher and Pahpa Ioney, and Nohno Carly and Pahpa Wetper (the latter two are possibly an aunt and uncle). I have about nine siblings (some of them are probably cousins by American standards) with ages ranging from about 16 to about 38, four women and five men. Then I have probably a dozen cousins (again, many are most likely nieces and nephews, but who’s counting?) ranging from 18 months-25, all guys with the exception of two little girls. So that’s who I see on a daily basis, and on a given day, about 12-15 people stay at my house, the mixture of people constantly changing. My entire street is filled with family, and it’s members disperse amongst the houses with no set “home”. Everyone’s house is home, everyone’s Nohno is your Nohno, and every child is yours to take care of (and scold).
My family is loud, funny, sweet, caring, and just insanely wonderful. I’ve been telling fellow Volunteers that I feel spoiled, because my family is just that amazing, and I don’t feel like I did anything to deserve such an incredible placement, especially knowing that some of my teammates still feel awkward and uncomfortable at home. We call these feelings PCG (Peace Corps Guilt) and it takes many forms—from feeling guilty of your disproportionate wealth and affluence compared to the local people to feeling guilty that you have regular bowel movements while all your fellow Volunteers do not.
Most of my time is spent just hanging around the house eating, watching the kids, or just sitting and talking. The majority of my siblings speak English to me (I’ve found there is a big difference between being able to speak English and being willing to speak it to me, so I feel I need to clarify “speak English to me” rather than just “speak English”, as a larger hidden population of my family knows English but is too intimidated to attempt to speak it with me) and enjoy giving me little lessons in Pohnpeian. The older members of my family delight when I can string sentences together to create a simple, but respectable conversation. They always laugh at me, and I initially took offense, but now realize it is a sign that I did something good and they are too overwhelmed with excitement and pride to do anything else.
My home complex consists of several structures. The main house is  where I have my own bedroom (with a full sized mattress no less, I almost cried when I saw it, as  up until that point I had been sleeping on a bed frame with no bed that was, paradoxically, a little too short for me, and my feet hung off the end). There is also a living room in which probably five or so teenage boys sleep each night, sprawled out on matts and pillows, and a make-shift bedroom for one of my sisters, Marla (she’s 26), with a curtain hung up and drawn to give her some privacy. The bathroom is also in the house, and I’ll go ahead and satisfy your burning curiosity right now: I have a toilet. And it flushes. I'll give you a minute to bask in my luxury. I shower standing in a tub much like you would find in the States, but the water (that is expertly jerry-rigged into the bathroom via a tangle of pvc pipes) pours into a large bucket that sits in the tub, and thus began my love affair with “bucket showers”. Basically, you fill up the big bucket, and using a smaller bucket, you dump cold water on yourself to bathe. It may sound primitive, but it is amazing. I’ve already grown to yearn for the cold water in the shower (it’s nearly the only escape from the heat), but there’s just something extra special about the bucket shower, and it’s actually quite relaxing. You should try it. There is also a small kitchen attached to the house. It’s under the same roof, but in order to go inside, you have to first walk out the main front door. It features two small kerosene burners, a sink with again, expertly jerry-rigged running water, and lots of counter space for food preparation.
About 10 yards past my bedroom window is a smaller house in which my Pahpa and Nohno sleep, along with assorted youngsters. There is also a large fire area, covered by a tin roof in which much cooking occurs, and a raised cement platform, covered with a thatch roof, that is the general hang out location during the day. There are two wooden bench seats attached, and the floor space is large enough to accommodate about a dozen people crowded around the t.v. that is housed there. When there’s power (my village routinely experiences power outages, and occasionally my family simply runs out of power, as it is a prepaid system) my family enjoys watching American films (pirated, of course), which I find ironic because the vast majority of those watching don’t speak a lick of English. But there aren’t many options, because Pohnpei could never have the resources necessary to either dub over films in Pohnpeian or produce films of their own, so the American stuff will have to do. This is an added bonus for me, as I get occasional reminders of home.
My Nohno loves to cook, and my Pahpa is a fisherman. This translates into delicious. My food situation has dramatically improved since leaving Kolonia, partly because in the jungle there is naturally a greater abundance of fresh fruits and veggies than in town, and partly because my Nohno stays at home, giving her plenty of time to cook, rather than simply open a can out of sheer exhaustion at a long day’s work. Every morning I have a single fluffy pancake, occasionally smeared with peanut butter (no syrup, there’s just no way to store it to keep the ants out), scrambled eggs (did I mention we have chickens?), and hot green tea. Breakfast of champions I’d say. Lunch and dinner consist of usually reef fish, crab, or (my favorite) lobster, all of which were caught the same day and generally kept alive in buckets until moments before being cooked. If that’s not fresh, I don’t know what is. My Nohno also loves vegetables and fruits (another Pohnpeian anomaly), so each meal usually comes with breadfruit, yams, a local squash (currently duking it out with breadfruit as my favorite local food item), mango, local apples (not actually apples), bananas cooked in countless ways (it’s funny, in America we’d specify if we were cooking the banana, such as fried plantains, etc., but here, they specify if the banana is uncooked—I was actually asked a few days in if I ate raw banana, and the expression caught me so off guard), or various other greens that don’t actually translate. And of course, each and every meal (I’m managed to convince them I don’t need it with my pancake) comes served over a huge plate of white rice. I generally drink a coconut or two with each meal, as I’m advised not to drink the water, and my Pahpa takes great pride in being able to locate, knock down, and open the coconuts for me each time. He even went to town to get me straws, so I wouldn’t have to put my mouth on the coconut itself (which makes no difference to me, but was important to him). Generally, my belly is full and happy.
So that is just a brief glimpse of my life here in my village. Nothing is perfect (as I type this in my room in the dark due to a power outage), but I don’t think I could be happier. So take comfort in knowing I am being well cared for by my wonderful, loving family. I’ve only lived her for a few short weeks, but I feel like I’ve lived here all my life, and I can already tell that It’s going to be hard to leave in two years. I’m beginning to truly feel at home here in Pohnpei, a feeling I didn’t think would happen until much later in my service. Look out, here comes another dose of PCG: feeling guilty about not being homesick.
 But don’t worry, Mom and Dad, (and  of course, Kay) just because my family is amazing here, doesn’t mean my family at home isn’t just as amazing.
I’ll leave you with my two favorite lines from the Pohnpei State Anthem, sung every morning at school:
I sohte pahn kak manokehla
Ahi wasahn kouosan Pohnpei
I can never forget
Where I come from, Pohnpei
--Christy

No comments:

Post a Comment